Custom Tailor. High Quality suits & Shirts At Thailand Prices

                                      The first appointment - choosing fabric and measuring

When ordering a fully bespoke suit you are measured in great detail taking into account all the idiosyncrasies of your posture. You are measured by a bespoke cutter who has years of experience on Savile Row. It's important that the person measuring you is the same person who will be doing the cutting. He will need to see a picture of you in his mind whilst he analyses the measurements and creates a unique pattern for you. If necessary the cutter will take a photo of the client at the first appointment. This is an necessary element in the bespoke tailoring process.

The suit is then hand cut to your specific measurements and then hand stitched on Savile Row, but only up to the 'baste' stage.

This stage is what makes a bespoke suit bespoke. If your tailor claims to be making you a bespoke suit but there is no baste stage then it is not a bespoke suit. Without this stage it can only be semi-bespoke or made to measure.

A baste is a half-made suit that is not properly finished and only temporarily held together with white baste stitching. This allows it to be easily taken apart and remade.

The basted garment has unfinished lapels, no buttons and no buttonholes (see Top photo ).

                                                 The second appointment - first fitting

 At this stage you will have your first fitting and the cutter will assess the accuracy of his measurements.

The basted suit is a blueprint or 'first draft' of the final version and can be radically altered if necessary.

The cutter will make notes and usually chalk several marks on the suit to instruct the tailors on how the suit is to be altered.

The fact that the suit is only basted together allows you the opportunity to dramatically change the style if you wish. For example there are no buttonholes on this garment so if you want to raise or lower the buttoning position this is easily possible. You also have the opportunity to narrow or widen the lapels or shoulders if you wish.

These options would not be possible on a made to measure or semi bespoke suit.

                                                  The third appointment - second fitting

At this point the suit will be at a more advanced stage of tailoring and may be almost completely finished (depending on the complexity of your shape).

All of the alterations carried out by the specialist bespoke adjustment tailor will be assessed and scrutinized by the cutter.

The final adjustments will be marked up and then carried out by the tailors.

                                              The fourth/final appointment - third fitting

Depending on your shape, this may be your final fitting. If so the cutter will check that the adjustments have been done correctly and if you are happy with the suit you can take it home.

If further adjustments are required it will be returned to the tailors until it is perfect. Cutters are perfectionists by nature and a good cutter will not rest until the suit is perfect.

After all he has a reputation to protect.

All in all this process involves 60 to 90 hours of manual work by skilled craftsmen. This is one of the reasons why fully bespoke suits are so much more expensive than made to measure (Standard Tailored) suits.

                                                           Tailoring personnel

In order to create an immaculate bespoke suit we employ a team of "Savile Row" experts. There  will be at least four bespoke tailoring experts working on your suit altogether. This is a list of the personnel involved:

1. The cutter - responsible for taking the measurements, drafting the pattern, cutting the fabric, fitting the garments and overseeing the whole process. The 'architect' of the project.
2. The coat maker - responsible for making the jacket. He receives a bundle of cloth from the cutter and takes the garment to the baste stage and to all subsequent fitting stages - Aside from the cutter, the coat maker is the most important person working on the suit.
3. Waistcoat maker - Performs the same tasks as the coat maker only with the vest.
4. The trouser maker - Performs the same tasks as the coat maker only with the trousers.
5. The finishers - traditionally female - felling (hand-stitching) all linings and edges.
6. Specialist presser - pressing is a crucial and underrated part of the process - the jacket is expertly pressed by hand in stages to allow certain parts of the jacket to dry.
7. The bespoke alteration tailors - responsible for any fine tuning at the final fitting stage - will also alter or refurbish any old garments if a client loses weight over time

We hope you found this information useful, and you are always welcome in our shop, where we always are available to answer any questions you might have.